
A small garden is not a lesser garden. In fact, some of the most generous, productive and downright charming plots I have ever visited have been no bigger than a decent-sized sitting room. The trick is to stop thinking about what you haven't got and start thinking about how the space is layered — upwards, in succession, and around the edges. Here is how to make every inch earn its keep.
Before you buy a single plant, spend a day watching your plot. Note where the sun lands at 9am, at noon and at 4pm, and where it never lands at all. A garden that faces south will happily grow tomatoes, rosemary and lavender; one that sits in shade until lunchtime will do far better with chard, mint, sorrel, ferns and hostas. Fighting the aspect is the quickest way to waste both money and space.
Then look down. Most small gardens have surprisingly decent soil, but if yours is heavy clay or thin, dusty stuff over rubble, it is worth improving it with well-rotted manure or home-made compost before you plant anything permanent. In containers, don't scrimp: a peat-free multipurpose compost for annuals and salads, and a soil-based mix for shrubs and long-term pots. Small plots punish poor drainage twice as hard as large ones, so always crock or raise pots onto feet.
Vertical space is the single greatest untapped resource in a tiny garden. A bare fence can hold three or four times the planting of the border beneath it.
Use the wall behind the planting, too. A pale fence, a light-coloured pot or a sheet of mirror tiles will bounce light back into the plot and make the whole thing feel half as big again.
Small gardens reward close planting, provided you feed and water well. Think in layers: bulbs and early salads underneath, taller crops and flowers above, climbers scrambling through the lot. Daffodils and tulips push up through emerging perennials in spring; by the time the foliage yellows, the herbaceous plants are covering the gap.
Succession sowing is what keeps a tiny plot productive from March to November. Instead of sowing a whole row of salad at once, sow a short row every fortnight in modules — rocket, mizuna, 'Cut and Come Again' lettuce, spinach, coriander. Pick the outer leaves and the plant keeps going. The same applies to beetroot, radish and dwarf beans.
Don't overlook edible ornamentals. Chard 'Bright Lights' looks wonderful in a border and tastes good too, violas and nasturtiums are entirely edible, and a pot of 'Tumbling Tom' tomatoes will trail from a hanging basket at head height.
A garden you never sit in is just a chore with a view. Even a 3m x 3m plot can hold a folding bistro table and two chairs if you place them deliberately. Tuck seating into a corner, angle it diagonally so it faces the longest view, and consider a built-in bench against a wall with storage underneath for tools and cushions.
Keep paths to at least 60cm wide, ideally 75cm, so you can move without brushing past wet foliage. A single diagonal path will always feel more generous than a grid of little ones, and it hides the true size of the plot by cutting the view short.
Containers and close-planted borders dry out fast. Group thirsty plants together so you can water one area rather than ten, mulch the surface with gravel or compost to slow evaporation, and water in the evening when the soil has cooled. A rainwater butt attached to the downpipe pays for itself within a season.
The final trick is to replant rather than rest. As summer annuals fade, lift them and drop in winter salads, violas or wallflowers. Layer bulbs in a large pot — tulips deepest, then narcissi, then crocus near the surface — and you will get three months of flowers from one container.
Small gardens are not about restraint. They are about generosity in miniature: a handful of leaves picked for lunch, a rose trained along a fence, a chair in the sun at four o'clock. Get the layers right and a plot the size of a postage stamp will feel like a smallholding.
Hi, my name is Anthony kuber. I am artist and fashion designer.
I love to travel and writing blogging.
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